![]() Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut.Through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket, drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter.Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown).Lay the gutter into the brackets that you’ve lag-screwed to the fascia.To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet.To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above).(If the gutter doesn’t turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.) At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets.Tip: Locate screws or rivets in the sides of the gutter, never in the bottom. If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use a 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end.Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown). ![]() Tip: Check the fascia for rot - and make repairs if necessary - before installing the gutters.
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